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Mandy Baldwin BSc (Hons) MIT LTTS explains what happens to your hair every time you colour it
For the last two years ColourB4, the original and leading global hair colour remover, has been monitoring the effects of colour on hair. It was only when people started to be able to take colour out of their hair (using ColourB4) that the effects dye had on the hair itself was revealed.
When colouring the hair to the same or to a darker shade new synthetic pigment molecules are added to the hair’s natural pigment changing its colour. Whereas in lightening the hair’s natural colour the darker natural pigments need first to be broken down then replaced with the new synthetic pigments.
Ammonia an alkaline compound with oxygen and hydrogen lifts and opens the hair cuticles allowing the small dye molecule to penetrate the inner cortex. As the dye molecule is oxidised by the hydrogen peroxide the ammonia that provides the alkaline environment acts as a catalytic agent bonding and breaking down the hairs natural colour pigment. The various combinations of pigment colour mixture of the primary colours provide the final shade chosen. Hence when ColourB4 is used to remove the synthetic pigment the hair does not go back to the original pigment as it was removed due the lightening process.
Dye pigment molecules in permanent colour are very small and are designed to easily penetrate deep into the hair’s cortex. But naturally these molecules would simply fall back out of the hair during shampooing. In order to trap the dye molecules in the cortex the dye uses ammonia mixed with hydrogen peroxide.
Whilst the small dye molecule is within the hair cortex an oxidation reaction takes place and begins to swell the dye molecule to a much larger size. Eventually the molecule is so large that it is trapped and unable to escape back through the hair’s cuticle. Think of this as an Alice in Wonderland effect where Alice is unable to back out of the door she came in due to growing so large.
Many people see the finish effects of a dye and think that is it," says Mandy Baldwin, colour consultant and Trichologist. “But, the effect of the dye on your actual hair pigments, particularly for those lightening their hair isn’t evident to the naked eye. Ammonia strips the pigment from your hair so even with a hair colour remover the original virgin colour may not return as natural pigments have been stripped by the dye itself." There are four natural pigments in the hair. Black and Brown hair is created by melanin pigments and red and blonde hair is created by Pheomelanin pigments. These natural pigments are produced by cells known as melanocytes. The hairs natural colour depends on the ratio of pigment present, and the quantity and mixture.
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